Designed by CREATE YOUR STYLE
Ambassador Diane Whiting

Materials:
Small package
• 726 3mm SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS Xilion Bicone Crystals (Art. 5328)—Crystal
• 1 yd. 6mm Alacarte Clasps™ WireLace®—Azure
• 1 AMAC Box, 13/16 in. square x 27/16 in. high—clear
• FusionBeads.com .016 Toho Clear Beading Thread

Large package
• 816 4mm SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS Xilion Bicone Crystals (Art. 5328)—Crystal
• 2 yds. 6mm Alacarte Clasps™ WireLace®—Lilac
• 1 AMAC Box, 15/8 in. square x 27/8 in. high—clear
• Beadalon® 0.25 SuppleMax™

Tools:
• Awl
• Beading needle, size 11 or 12
• Jewelry/craft saw
• Ruler
• Sandpaper

Additional Supplies:
• Basic beading supplies, pencil

For product information, see Sources of Supply on p. 93.

Dimensions: small box: 13/16 in. square x 27/16 in. high; large box: 15/8 in. square x 27/8 in. high
Advanced project

Econo-tip:
• Get the correct supplies the first time! Resist the temptation to get less-expensive thread: you could lose a lot of thread to breakage and end up spending more in replacement costs!

Instructions:
About Basic Right-Angle Weave (RAW)
Right-angle weave is stitched in 4-bead units. The base row begins with a 4-bead unit tied in a circle, and 3-bead units are added, with the thread path mimicking a figure-eight pattern. Follow the numbers to see the thread path. Subsequent rows are added with a 3-bead unit, and then 2-bead units that share a bead from the previous row and from the previous unit. In the Next Row diagram, the new beads are numbered in the order in which they are added, and the existing beads are lettered.

Fig. 1	Fig. 2

Beads are added following the order on the chart:

The most important thing to remember with RAW is that the thread will never cross between two beads; it always moves to the right or the left bead. This creates small square “holes” between each of the units.

About Straight-Edge Right-Angle Weave (RAW)
Straight-edge RAW is worked similar to standard RAW, except that a decrease is made on one edge, and an increase is made on the other. The increases are worked in one of two methods (A or B).

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

When the work is rotated 45°, the edges are straight.

To create the box shapes, the rows are worked until they fit around the box form and the empty areas are stitched in. The tops and bottoms are then worked on the diagonal using standard RAW and are stitched to each of the sides.

Let’s Get Started!
Prepare the Box
The plastic boxes that provide the interior support will need to be cut to size. Measure up from the bottom of the box on all four sides (13/16 in. for the small box; 15/8 in. for the large box) and mark the lines with pencil, or scratch with an awl. Use a craft or jewelry saw to cut the box to size. Smooth the cut edges with sandpaper or a medium-fine fingernail file.

Stitch the RAW covering with Crystals
Note: Directions are given for the small size in 3mm Crystals; the numbers in brackets [ ] are for the large box. Unless otherwise noted, the diagrams show the small box, and beads are numbered to correspond with the sequence in which they are added. The letters refer to beads that were added in previous steps.
1. Begin by stitching a RAW strip 10 [11] units long. At row end, position thread to exit from the second top bead (#26 in the diagram). This is the Decrease side.

Fig. 5

2. Begin the next row (beads #1, 2, and 3 in the diagram) and work back 9 [10] units. Add 3 beads to make one new RAW unit (beads #20, 21, 22). This is an Increase A side. Thread back through all 3 new beads and exit from the first top bead (#22 in the diagram).

Fig. 6

3. Make a new 3-bead RAW unit, starting a new row (beads #1, 2, and 3). Thread through A, 1, 2 and 3. Add 3 more beads to make another new unit, and thread through beads 3, 4, 5, 6, 3, A, and 1. This is an Increase B row.

Fig. 7

4. Continue in standard RAW, adding 2 beads per unit, 8 [9] times. Position thread as you did in Step 1 for a Decrease side.

Fig. 8

5. Repeat Steps 2–4 until you have 42 (45) beads on the straight side and your work almost fits around the clear box.

Fig. 9	Fig. 10

6. From this point on, you will connect the end and beginning sides to create a tube shape. To follow the diagram, the new beads are numbered and the existing beads are lettered: capital letters on the End Side and lowercase letters on the Beginning Side. Position your thread as if you are going to begin a new row of a decrease side. Use the following chart and diagram to add the new beads and connect the two sides.

Fig. 11	Fig. 12

7. Continue adding beads and joining the sides until you reach the top edge of the row; add 2 beads and thread around. Your thread will exit from bead #12 [13] at the top row. Weave tails in a zigzag fashion though at least 6 beads to secure. Cut thread.

Creating the Top and Bottom Sides
1. Gently slide the tube around the plastic box form. Align the top straight edge around the open side of the form, and the bottom straight edge around the closed bottom edge of the form. Add a new length of thread, and weave it through a couple of beads so it exits from the bead angling left at one of the corners. This will be Bead A, and all the beads at this top edge will correspond with the letters on the following diagram and chart.

Fig. 13

2. In the following diagram and chart, the beads on the sides of the form will be marked with the alphabet (uppercase on the right and lowercase on the left) and the new beads added to the top of the form will be numbered. (See note below chart about even and odd numbers of rows on the larger box.)

Fig. 14

3. After completing the top side, stitch back around the edges (remembering to work in figure-eight circles and to not cross any beads) to tighten and secure the top to the sides. Thread through a few additional beads on the side edges to secure, and cut thread.
4. Insert a new length of thread near the unworked side of the box; weave in and around a few beads to secure the end, and then exit from the edge of the box as you did in Step 1, with the thread exiting from a bead facing the left. Repeat Step 2, following the diagram and table to stitch the bottom side. After completing the bottom side, repeat Step 3 to tighten and secure the bottom to the sides. Thread through a few additional beads to secure, and cut thread.

Wrap the Present
Wrap the WireLace® around the box, and tie an overhand knot in the tails. One of the tails will be much longer than the other. Cut the tails to about 11/2 in. Use the remaining cut piece of WireLace® (or the second yard if you are making a large box): Grasp the long edges and pull it apart. Continue ruffling the entire length; then gently smooth it to your desired width. Wrap around two or three fingers at least three times, and pinch the loop in the center. Lay the loop on top of the wrapped box, between the tails, and tie with a square knot. Fluff up all the loops to make your bow.

If you have questions concerning this project, contact the editors of Bead Design Studio.
Email: editors@beaddesignstudiomag.com
Website: www.BeadDesignStudioMag.com

Diane Whiting is an original CREATE YOUR STYLE Ambassador who has been designing and teaching for more than 10 years. Her crystal purses have won numerous awards, including first place in Swarovski's CREATE YOUR STYLE 2006 Design Contest. Contact Diane at dwhitingdesigns@cox.net or on Facebook at facebook.com/pages/Diane-Whiting-Designs.